 |
 |
 |
 |
|
|
|
|
 |
 |
 |
|
Richest stretches of
tropical forest at Kanker |
Tribal Haat (Market) |
Tirathgarh Waterfall
at Indravati River (Bastar) |
| |
|
|
|
|
Central India: Kanker and Bastar
As one
leaves the plains of Chhattisgarh southwards, there is a
gentle but unmistakable ascent into the hills. The forest
thickens all around as the road winds up serpentine ghats.
The hills in the distance, bathed in a misty blue hue,
appear to fade into each other. Somewhere along, in a
clearing on the side, men with poles slung over their
shoulders and women with baskets on their heads, make their
way down a forest track in a single file, unmindful of the
occasional vehicle going past. The cicadas hum
busily as the piecing cry of a jungle fowl rings across. The
air is fresh and sweet with the fragrance of wild flowers.
One gets an exhilarating sense of coming into something
wondrous, beautiful and untouched…..
|
|
|
|
Far away
from India’s regular tourist destinations, the tribal
districts of Kanker and Bastar straddle central India’s
eastern uplands and plateau, and are covered with one of its
richest stretches of tropical forest. Since time immemorial,
these have been home to a pristine world of tribal
communities that have created and sustained delicate rhythms
of life in harmony with diverse flora and fauna, and are
constantly reinventing these in the face of pressures of
modernization. |
|
Kanker
For long, the
journey into this fascinating land has begun at Kanker. Nestled
in the bend of river Dudh, a tributary of the Mahanadi, and
framed by an arc of hills, this picturesque town quietly watches
over the routes that lead into the interior. Today a district
head quarter with a population of 30.000, Kanker, for most of
its history, was a kingdom. Descendants of the last ruling
dynasty of the Chandravansh are still respected by a town and
tribal folk proud of their heritage.
Dotted with
monuments from the 19th and the early 20th
Centuries, the life of the town is a veritable treasure-trove of
vignettes. Its principal road, the axis around which the town
takes shape, often becomes a virtual bazaar , where tribal folk,
attired in bright clothes and quaint ornaments, gather from
neighboring hamlets to trade their wares. From all along this
road can be seen the Qila Dongri, a majestic hill that towers
over the river and township below. A trek to the top is a
pleasant experience and takes you to a temple and its adjacent
pool and caves, a bagful of lore, and a great view of Kanker. |
|
|
|
|
Further on…………
The vicinity of
Kanker abounds in sites of natural beauty and archaeological
significance. Some of these are easily accessible and make
excellent short trips. 30 Kms south of Kanker, amidst dense
forest, rise the hills of Keshkal. The road climbs up a
spectacular series of ledges in 12 loops. At the top are two
picture-perfect Rest Houses which offer an array of breathtaking
views of the lush expanse of jungle and the interlocking valleys
below. On a rainy day, clouds float about in the ghats and
numerous streams spring to life and gurgle down the slopes. As
some distance is the tribal village of Bahigaon, famous for its
warmth and dances.
An hour’s drive
from Keshkal is the craft town of Kondagaon, where several
colonies of artists practice exciting traditions in pottery (Kumharpara),
wrought iron and bell metal craft. West of Kondagaon, again an
hour’s drive, is the tribal town of Narayanpur, famous all over
Bastar for its Madai, an unbridled celebration of of undiluted
tribal culture, and its unique bamboo craft. The Ghotuls, where
unmarried youth mix in a bold social custom of courtship, can
also be visited in the vicinity.
Among several of
the region’s Forest Sanctuaries is the Wildlife Reserve at
Sitanadi, to the north-east of Kanker. An old British Rest House
sits atop the central hill around which spreads a dense forest.
The Reserve protects, among other species of wildlife, sambhar,
bear, leopard, Spoted deer, wolf, line fox, langur, peacock,
bird of paradise and jungle fowl. It is also being prepared for
the tigers. Approximately 30 Kms south-west of Kanker is the
reservoir of Dudhawa. A toy-like Rest House on a hill overlooks
a vast expanse of water, an ideal setting for angling and bird
watching!
|
|
|
|
Jagdalpur
and beyond
Jagdalpur,
the district headquarter of Bastar 106 kms south of Kanker,
is the center of this region. Situated on the banks of the
seasonally turbulent Indravati, it has been the seat of an
ancient kingdom ruled by several dynasties. The present
Bhanj Deo-Kakatiya Ruling House traces its ancestry back to
the 14th Century A.D., and even today commands an
enviable loyalty among among tribals, who vividly remember,
through oral traditions, a glorious and tumultuous past
Jagdalpur is also a virtual museum of tribal life and arts.
At any time of the year, Muria, Maria, Dhurwa, Bhattra and
other tribals, attired in the distinctive dress, headgear
and ornaments of their tribe, can be seen sitting or walking
around its many tree-lined roads.
Workshops scattered about
the town preserve and encourage an array of brilliant
handicraft, developed with industry and ingenuity by a
people living amidst nature. Wood, stone (especially the
semi-precious corundum), Kosa (a local variety of silk),
terracotta and bell-metal, among others, are fashioned into
objects with a charm all of their own. The state emporium
collects them for display and sale.
|
 |
|
|
|
Wrought iron and bell metal
craft |
|
|
|
|
The real
feel of the region, however, comes from a day or
two spent in the villages and hamlets of Bastar, observing
the timeless rituals and customs of the tribes. The
Bison-horn Marias of Tokapal, known for their hospitality,
dance and weaving, promise a wonderful time.
Within a
radius of 30Km around Jagdalpur, a host of scenic sites take
you deep into the jungle. The stupendous falls of the
Indravati at Chitrakote, the deep caves at Kailash and
Kotumsar, with their stalactite and stalagmite formations,
the lively cataracts of Tirathgarh and the crocodile
sanctuary at Bhaninsadarra, offer exciting prospects for
exploration and picnic.
|
 |
|
|
Deep caves at Kailash and
Kotumsar |
|
|
|
Copyright © 2007
Kanker Palace Heritage All rights reserved
|
Designed & Hosted by :
www.internetshoot.com
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|